India is home to 70% of the world’s tigers, and Ranthambhore National Park is one of its largest reserves. Spotting a tiger on safari here is an unforgettable experience.
Ranthambhore is conveniently located between Agra (home of the Taj Mahal) and Jaipur (the splendid Pink City). It’s one of the best places in India to spot wild Bengal tigers in their natural habitat, boasting reliable sightings year on year. As a dry and deciduous forest, it’s a great deal easier to spot wildlife here than it is in denser jungles. It’s also set apart by its magical backdrop – the crumbling 10th-century Ranthambhore Fort is nestled in the heart of the forest, as well as a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Ganesh (the much-revered elephant-headed Hindu god). Though the tiger is Ranthambhore’s most famous resident, this reserve is also home to leopards, sloth bears, peacocks, several species of deer, crocodiles, langurs and countless birds (both resident and migratory): the whole cast of the Jungle Book! Up until the early 1970s, this vast expanse of forest, lakes, meadows and mountains was a royal hunting ground. We recently experienced a safari in Ranthambhore National Park, and here’s how it went:
We rose early for the morning safari. There are two safaris each day in Ranthambhore; one in the morning (about 06:30 – 09:30) and a second in the afternoon (roughly 14:30 – 17:30). Our private Jeep, naturalist guide Mr Rajendra Gurjar, and driver picked us up from our hotel, and then we were off – bouncing along Ranthambhore Road to the park entry gate. Rajendra has been accompanying our guests for many years and is thought of as one of the best in town. He’s a man on a mission: Rajendra is determined to do everything he can to ensure we spot a tiger in the park today!
On our way to the park
There are 20 Jeeps permitted in the reserve on each safari. This is to protect the animals and ensure they’re not crowded. Each Jeep is assigned a specific zone from 1 – 10. After entering the main gate, there’s a short but very scenic drive along the road to reach your allotted route. Along the way, we drove past beautiful old banyan trees, idyllic waterfalls and more langurs than I could count!
Entering Ranthambhore National Park
The road into the national park is peppered with crumbling ruins
As we entered our zone, our naturalist Rajendra stopped the vehicle: “Madam, please look down – here are fresh tiger prints”. Our naturalists are incredibly skilled and pick up on lots of subtle signs to lead us closer to the tiger; from pugmarks in the sand to the peacock’s warning call. The naturalists are so adept that they can identify the gender, and sometimes even the exact tiger, all by its footprint!
We spotted a paw print in the sand
As we bounced along the dusty track, we next spotted a herd of beautiful chittal (spotted deer). Real-life Bambis! Spotted deer are abundant in Ranthambhore National Park, and this is one of the many animals you’re guaranteed to spot.
A spotted deer
We were assigned Zone 4, which is thought of as one of the more scenic zones thanks to the vast shimmering lake at its core. This is often the first spot a naturalist will explore for guests in Zone 4, as tigers are frequently spotted lapping up water here.
The lakes attract many birds
After having enjoyed spectacular natural landscapes at the lake, Rajendra’s ears pricked: he’d heard the sounds that warn of a tiger’s presence: monkeys and peacocks were screaming, deer in the area becoming agitated and nervous. We sped off along the tracks until stopping abruptly by an old crumbling wall, and there she was: Arrowhead, the current queen of Ranthambhore and granddaughter of legendary tigress Machli (a dominating matriarch who once fought a 14-foot crocodile).
Arrowhead, looking straight at us!
She was beautiful. Sighting a tiger in the wild is an exhilarating experience. It sends shivers down your spine as you catch that first striking flash of orange. We spent a good fifteen minutes or so admiring her beauty. Initially, we were busy trying to capture as many photographs as we could, but towards the end, we put our cameras down to enjoy the moment. It was majestic.
A mongoose caught her attention!
She wasn’t bothered by our presence – much more interested in the mongoose!
She was wide awake, entertaining us with her head tilts, yawns and flexing her huge paws.
Yawning!
It was amazing to note that she wasn’t bothered at all by our presence; she was more interested in a tiny mongoose scuttling across the path in front of her! Similarly, when a bird rustled in the trees above, her ears pricked to the sound. As she stretched, got up and made her way back into the forest, our driver started the engine, and we headed back to the hotel.
Slinking back into the forest
The excitement we felt having spotted Arrowhead left us feeling inspired and exhilarated all day. We relived the moment back in our minds and excitedly discussed it with staff and other guests at our camp.
Close up
Where to rest your head
We stayed at what can only be described as our new all-time favourite resort in Rajasthan: The Oberoi Vanyavilas. It was spectacular. Just a short drive away from the park gate, The Oberoi Vanyavilas is nestled in the beauty of the wilds and an ideal contrast to the bustle of Delhi and Agra.
Built to evoke the grandeur of the maharajas hunting camps, each of the luxury tents are vast and have finely embroidered canopies, luxurious en-suite bathrooms and private verandahs. The resort is spread across 20 acres of beautifully manicured gardens. By offering just 25 tents, it has a very intimate feel to it.
Luxury Tent at The Oberoi Vanyavilas
Communal areas of the camp are embellished with vibrant frescoes and richly details interiors, creating the ambience of a royal hunting palace.
During winters, there’s a roaring bonfire in the dining area
The restaurant serves an array of Indian and continental dishes, with something to suit all palates. In the charming courtyard lit with candles, the sounds of traditional folk music can be heard softly in the background.
The heavenly pool
The Oberoi Vanyavilas is picture-perfect and delivers the Oberoi’s signature world-class service. Having a dip in their pool felt like absolute heaven, topped off by a member of staff bringing us complimentary chilled mocktails.
Arriving back from safari
There were lots of thoughtful touches extended to us during our stay at The Oberoi Vanyavilas, though we don’t want to divulge too much and ruin the surprise! A highlight of our stay was meeting Lakshmi and Mala, the resort’s resident elephants.
Lakshmi and Mala – The Oberoi Vanyavilas’ gorgeous resident elephants
Shiv looking out at Ranthambhore National Park, from the observatory tower at The Oberoi Vanyavilas
Of our guests who experience several Oberoi hotels during their stay in Rajasthan, they often tell us that The Oberoi Vanyavilas was their favourite, and we agree! It’s a spectacular experience and the perfect place to recharge your batteries mid-trip before continuing to the vibrant bazaars of Jaipur, the majestic forts of Jodhpur, and the fairy-tale-like lakes of Udaipur.
Maddie with Ratna Malhotra – the General Manager of The Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambhore
If you’d like to include a stay at The Oberoi Vanyavilas for tiger spotting during your upcoming trip to Rajasthan, please get in touch. We’d be delighted to assist with your arrangements, and as specialists in luxury tours of this region, we’re the ideal match to craft your tailor-made tour. To get the ball rolling, you might like to take a look at our Oberoi sample itinerary. You can also explore our Top 3 Luxury Camps in Ranthambhore.
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