Our Old Delhi tour is not for the faint-hearted, but if you’re willing to navigate crowds and chaos to get beneath India’s skin, you may find Old Delhi to be your favourite stop of all.
India’s capital city of Delhi can be broadly divided into two distinct personalities: New Delhi, built by the British in the 1930s as their imperial capital, boasting wide avenues, grand vistas and colonial mansions; and Old Delhi, a melange of souk-like bazaars, 16th and 17th-century Mughal-built architecture, ambling cows, vibrant saris, and relentless noise (from hooting horns to the cries of vegetable hawkers).
Bright red tomatoes for sale by a cart vendor in Old Delhi
Co-founder Madeleine recently spent a day experiencing our Old Delhi tour first-hand. Here’s how her experience went:
Old Delhi Tour, Stop 1: Salaam Baalak Trust City Walk
My first stop of the day was the Salaam Baalak Trust City Walk. A non-profit and non-governmental organisation established in 1988, Salaam Baalak Trust provides shelter, comfort, education and hope to vulnerable children who’ve found themselves living on the streets of Delhi.
The charity offers what they call ‘City Walks’, guided by former street children, who will show you first-hand what life is like for Delhi’s homeless youngsters.
During the walk, my guide explained how children end up on the streets of Delhi and what they do to survive. Some are lost, others escape an abusive home and hope to find a better life of their own. Tragically, others were left by their families to fend for themselves; especially little girls, who’re seen as too expensive, thanks to the dowry tradition which is deep-rooted in rural Indian culture. In some communities, Indian families are expected to pay a substantial amount to the groom’s family when their daughter gets married.
He also explained his own unfortunate but inspiring story.
Children at the Salaam Baalak Trust shelter
He then guided me through the narrow backstreets of Old Delhi’s Paharganj area, to one of Salaam Baalak Trust’s shelters. The trust has several accommodations throughout Delhi. This one was for boys, aged between 5 and 13.
Two boys at the shelter in Old Delhi
Prince William and Kate visited the shelter in 2016. Here they proudly display photographs of the visit.
A display of recent projects and activities at the shelter
The trust encourages the children to follow their dreams
It was a pleasure to meet the children, all of whom were very excited to have their photographs taken and keen to test out their English. I highly recommend this experience for anyone looking to make a charitable contribution while in India.
Madeleine (co-founder) with her Salaam Baalak Trust guide
Old Delhi Tour, Stop 2: Jama Masjid Mosque
We then headed over to the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. It was built in 1656 by Emperor Shah Jahan (the same emperor who later formed the Taj Mahal in Agra), taking six years and a workforce of 5,000 to construct.
The Jama Masjid is striking and impressive
A magnificent flight of steps leads to the large arched entrances (there are four; north, east, south and west), where, in the 17th century, horses were sold and jugglers performed. Nowadays, sweet-sellers, beggars, and touts mill around.
Inside the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque
The enormous courtyard can accommodate up to 20,000 people at prayer times, especially during Friday prayers and on the festival of Eid where it looks like a sea of worshipers.
A view of the Red Fort seen through arches of the Jama Masjid mosque
Praying inside the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque
I’d heard there were fantastic views of Old Delhi from the minarets. I decided to go for it and embarked on a fifteen-minute climb to the top. The staircase is so steep and so narrow that it was uncomfortable at times, particularly when we crossed people coming back down (very tight squeeze!). I don’t recommend it for anyone who’s not firm on their feet, uncomfortable with heights, or doesn’t like tight spaces. The view from the top was remarkable, though.
The minaret was used for the call to prayer
Note: like most places of worship in India, visitors are required to remove their shoes in the Jama Masjid. We recommend carrying a pair of socks in your bag to wear instead (though locals go barefoot). Ladies are required to wear a robe and this can be borrowed, free, from the mosque entrance. You can learn more about the etiquette of visiting places of worship in India with our helpful guide.
Old Delhi Tour, Stop 3: Old Delhi Bazaars (Chandni Chowk, Kinari Bazaar, Spice Market)
From the Jama Masjid, the bazaars of Old Delhi spill out in all directions. These souk-like marketplaces are scattered with a bewildering array of goods, from colourful saris to silvery jewellery, fresh vegetables, spices, pickles, books; anything and everything can be found and haggled for in Old Delhi.
Walking through Old Delhi is a colourful experience
This road-side vendor is preparing and selling ‘paan’: a preparation of betel leaf and tobacco
The markets are separated into various specialities. Kinari Bazaar, for example, specialises in wedding accessories; think sparkly tinsel, decadent dresses, and jewellery. Khari Boli, Asia’s largest spice market, is bursting with sacks of red chilli, turmeric, garam masala and other local spices, waiting to be packed and sold across the country.
Jalebi, a traditional sweet, being prepared and sold in Chandni Chowk bazaar, Old Delhi
We stopped in Paranthewaligali to sample the famous stuffed parantha (Indian flatbread), and kachori (lentils wrapped in flatbread and deep-fried). Both were delicious. From the food to the smells, sights, sounds and colours, my guided walk through Old Delhi was a very sensory experience.
Colours of Kinari Bazaar, Old Delhi
Delicious kachoris said to be the best in Old Delhi
Kinari Bazaar sells a dizzying array of wedding attire
Colourful saris for sale in Kinari Bazaar
A monkey snacks on a stolen flatbread in Chandni Chowk bazaar
Paranthas being prepared in Old Delhi
Bright red chillies in Old Delhi
Spices for sale in Khari Baoli – Asia’s largest spice market
Old Delhi Tour, Stop 4: Red Fort, aka Lal Qila
Our last stop of the day was the Red Fort. Also built by Emperor Shah Jahan, this red sandstone citadel was commissioned in 1639 and took nine years to construct. It was the seat of Mughal power until 1857 (after the Indian Mutiny, the British moved in, built barracks, and ended the Mughal era). Today, the Red Fort evokes the power, pomp and magnificence of the Mughals – if you use your imagination, its easy to see imperial elephants swaying by with their mahouts, court ladies being carried in palanquins, or a royal army of eunuchs.
Madeleine outside the Red Fort, Old Delhi
Each year on Independence Day (August 15th), the Prime Minister hoists this national flag at the Red Fort
Entering into the Red Fort there’s a line of shops. In the olden days, this was a marketplace for the royal ladies
Highlights include the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). The hall is raised on a platform and embellished with massive Mughal arches. At its centre lies the throne of Shah Jahan, which was once surrounded by decorative panels and intricately in-laid gems. Watched by crowds of people from the courtyard below, here at the Diwan-i-Am Shah Jahan would listen to the pleas of his subjects. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) was more exclusive. In this spot, the emperor would sit on his Peacock Throne, made of solid gold and inlaid with hundreds of precious stones.
Decorative inlay work can be seen around the Red Fort
Diwan-i-am (Hall of Public Audience) at the Red Fort, Old Delhi
Another exciting part of the complex is the Moti Masjid (‘large mosque’). This mosque was designed by Emperor Aurangzeb (Shah Jahan’s son) for only he to use. Beyond the mosque is a Mughal garden in the typical charbagh style (four symmetrical sections).
Mughal garden at the Red Fort in Old Delhi
It’s worth noting that those who’re short on time are usually encouraged to skip Delhi’s Red Fort, as you can see a more exquisite example of the same design in Agra.
If you’d like to include an Old Delhi tour on your upcoming trip to India, please get in touch. All our tours of India are tailor-made to suit the individual tastes, schedule and requirement of our guests. For inspiration, our suggested Luxury Golden Triangle India tour is perfect for first-time visitors.
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