Malji ka Kamra, nestled in the quaint town of Churu, is a charming base from which to explore Rajasthan’s fresco-filled Shekhawati region. This unique building has been lovingly restored, ensuring a comfortable stay while retaining much of its original features; most notably several beautiful hand-painted murals adorning the walls.
Malji ka Kamra, Churu
Like all the properties we’ve hand-picked for our guests, we recently stayed at Malji ka Kamra. Here, with first-hand photographs, we illustrate how we got on. Firstly though, you may be wondering what the Shekhawati region is. It refers to a cluster of small neighbouring towns in Rajasthan, each with beautiful, well-preserved painted havelis (intricately carved stone townhouses), and all of whom prospered thanks to the region’s strategic location on the old camel caravan trade route. The havelis of Shekhawati are sprawling old houses built in the late-19th and early-20th centuries, decorated exuberantly with incredibly detailed murals and gold leaf work. Wealthy local merchants constructed them. Churu has some stunning havelis of its own, though Malji ka Kamra is also ideally located for exploring the neighbouring Shekhawati towns of Mandawa, Mahansar, Fatehpur and Ramgarh.
Reaching Churu after a long drive from Delhi, we passed through a narrow street. You’d never imagine that at the end of this street lies a magnificently restored, century-old haveli. From the outside, its tiered structure almost looks like a magnificent mint-green wedding cake. Inside proves just as unique: original hand-painted frescos adorn the walls, complemented by tasteful Indian décor.
The rooms are full of exciting murals and sculpture work
The building boasts a unique fusion of architectural styles, from European-inspired pillars and Italian Art-Deco to traditional Mughal archways. Malji ka Kamra dates back over a hundred years and was built initially by Malchand Kothari (a wealthy local merchant) as a guesthouse, serving as the venue for many of his parties. The Maharaja of Bikaner stayed on several occasions.
Having settled into our room, we were met by the passionate and friendly owner, Mr Deepak Balan. He casually introduces us to the history of the area and briefs us on the various activities and experiences available in and around Malji ka Kamra. Deepak shares:
“Our 12 room property works as a unique gateway to discover Shekhawati’s “open art gallery” beyond its touristic town of Mandawa. Churu’s havelis, quiet as they are, serve as a breath of fresh air and take you to a different era. At the same time, there is much to discover in Churu – from heritage walks to farm visits, picnic breakfasts to romantic dinners; you can even visit the local school or explore the colourful vegetable market on foot”.
After a delicious and authentically Rajasthani lunch, we set off to explore the town, taking in both Malji ka Kamra’s ‘craft walk’ and ‘heritage walk’ in one great cultural hit. Here, in photos, we share the experience:
The narrow streets of Churu are best explored by rickshaw
Churu has a charming population of goats living in the narrow streets
During our craft tour, we visited a local textile artist. He and his family produce these delicate, colourful saris.
Our next stop was at a traditional Indian bangle maker in the old bazaar. Watching him produce his colourful pieces was quite mesmerising.
Following the craft tour, we commenced our heritage walk. Accompanied by an experienced guide, the heritage walk invites you to explore Churu’s stunning havelis, a local Jain temple, and a small museum.
A typical street in Churu, Rajasthan
A haveli spotted on our heritage walk in Churu
A decorative door on a haveli in Churu, Rajasthan
A colourful door spotted on our heritage walk in Churu, Rajasthan
Most of the havelis in Churu and the surrounding Shekhawati area have been abandoned
A fresco painting adorning the exterior of a haveli in Churu
An old palanquin spotted in an abandoned haveli in Churu
Most of the havelis have been abandoned by their owners (who migrated to Kolkata, Mumbai and Chennai), so Churu and much of the Shekhawati region has an eery, deserted-town kind of atmosphere.
We visited the Churu Museum, which houses some ancient texts and accounting records. These dated back to the 1700s.
The friendly museum curator explained the history behind this very old traditional skirt.
On our way back to Malji ka Kamra, our heritage walk ended with a visit to a beautiful Jain temple.
Stunning detail inside a Jain temple covered on our heritage walk with Malji ka Kamra
The incredible decoration inside a Jain temple in Churu
The following morning, we rose early and headed out to the desert for a Jeep safari. The arid scrubland around Churu provides a fascinating insight into rural life in Rajasthan. Our guide, Mr Lal Singh, introduced us to native wildlife such as the Chinkara (Indian Gazelle), as well as local trees and plants. He quips:
“You came to Churu at the best time. During late March and the month of April, Rajasthan’s national tree, the Roheda, is in full bloom”.
The vibrant Roheda is Rajasthan’s national tree
On tour with Indian Excursions, we’ll provide a private vehicle and dedicated chauffeur
The beautiful Roheda tree in bloom
Roheda, Rajasthan’s national tree, is a pop of bright colour against the golden sands of the desert. It’s integral to life here in the desert, and every part of the tree is used; the wood for the fire, the leaves as fodder for cattle, and the flowers gobbled up by camels, goats and sheep. It also has some medicinal uses.
Our desert safari kicked off with a stop at this stunning lake. It was man-made to bring water to this desert region.
During the safari, we spotted some native Indian gazelle’s, known locally as Chinkara
A shepherd and his herd in the arid scrubland outside Churu
A highlight of our desert safari was the picnic breakfast laid out for us. Our table was set in an old water tank. Our guide, Mr Lal Singh, explained that this water tank was constructed for the shepherds and their animals so that they could access fresh water (for free). It still works today by harvesting the monsoon rains for use throughout the year.
A picnic breakfast was beautifully set out for us
On returning to Malji ka Kamra, I was treated to a tour of the property by Mr Lal Singh. The hotel offers 12 rooms, divided into three categories: Haveli Rooms, Heritage Rooms, and the Family Suite. The Heritage Rooms are beautifully adorned with original fresco paintings, while the Haveli Rooms offer a spacious private balcony. The Family Suite, as the name suggests, is ideal for families or small groups; it comfortably sleeps four, with two double beds and a separate living area.
Rooms at Malji ka Kamra are beautifully decorated with original hand-painted murals
The family room offers a beautiful living area with many original fresco paintings
A dressing table space in a painted room at Malji ka Kamra
The gardens
The building’s façade is an exciting and eclectic mix of European and Indian styles
There are many lovely places to sit out with a cup of tea and relax, at Malji ka Kamra
On our way out of Churu to our next destination, Bikaner, we detoured a little to the town of Mahansar. Half an hour from Churu, Mahansar is home to the impressive Sone ki Dukaan (Golden Haveli). In Deepak’s opinion its one of Shekhawati’s most beautiful and well-preserved havelis, and we wholly agree! It boasts wonderfully intricate paintings and gold leaf work depicting stories from Hindu epics.
The Golden Haveli is one of the most impressive in Rajasthan
Beautifully detailed work inside the Golden Haveli in Mahansar, near Churu
Inside the Golden Haveli in Mahansar
A well-preserved fresco at the Golden Haveli in Mahansar, Rajasthan
Nearby the Golden Haveli is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and a great view over the village. A visit to Mahansar can be included on your way out of Churu, or as a day trip during your stay. Rather than driving, you can also take a short train ride on the historic metre-gauge train, which harks back to the days of the Raj.
From the top of the Shiva temple
Hindu gods depicted in the Shiva temple, Mahansar, Rajasthan
How does Malji ka Kamra, Churu, best fit within my Rajasthan tour?
Malji ka Kamra is best slotted in between Delhi and Bikaner, as your gateway to the Thar desert. It takes about six hours to drive from Delhi. Alternatively, you can drive from Jaipur, or Pushkar, which take about three and five hours respectively.
Haveli Rooms at Malji ka Kamra, Churu, start from approximately (US)$110 per double, per night, inclusive of breakfast and taxes.
If you’d like to include a stay at Malji ka Kamra on your upcoming trip to Rajasthan, please get in touch. As experts in tailor-made tours of this particular region, we’re the ideal match to assist with your arrangements. All our tours are personalised to our guest’s tastes, budget and requirements. As an initial starting point, you may like to consider pairing it with our Classic Rajasthan tour, or our Rajasthan with Boutique Hotels tour.
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